Can’t Do This Back Home

It maybe one of the most simplistic things in the world but soaking your feet in a fountain to cool down is one of my most favourite things now.

The Assumption of Mary Equals Fireworks!

Wednesday, Rebecca informed me, was the Assumption of Mary. I have no idea what that means, but what I do know is that everything in Italy is closed. This is supposed to kick-start all of the Italian August vacations but as we had already learned many of them were already off and on the summer vacations. We had planned to stay in Milan for the day, opting to head to the park in the afternoon after we packed our bags. We spent a few hours with our feet submerged in the water at the fountain catching some rays and discussing how nice Milan ended up being. While relaxing, we met an interesting sports writer and his young family and both spoke of our dislike for Napoleons. The discussion was spurred on by the entrance of a large bombastic family, looking a little rough, who moved in directly beside us at the fountain, instead of on the completely open side, not making any sense.

That evening we walked to Castello Sforzesco to view fireworks. It was so interesting to sit with all the locals and admire the festival, music and lightshow and just enjoy being in Italy. The fireworks weren’t as brilliant as the ones in Paris but they were largely enjoyed and seemed to go on forever. For what seemed like hours we sat and gazed up into the darkness watching the sky evolve.

Standing Atop the Banked Turn at Lingotto

Designed by engineer Giacomo Mattè-Trucco, the Lingotto factory was one of the first buildings of its size to rely heavily on reinforced concrete in the construction process. The five story building featured a simple loop rooftop test track with two banked turns that consumed a 1620 foot x 280 foot portion of rooftop. The test track’s banked turns were constructed from an intricate series of concrete ribs in a construction technique that had not been used frequently before Lingotto’s construction. It is safe to say the technique had never been used for a test track 6 stories.

For more information about the factory and track head over to http://jalopnik.com/5714628/fiats-roof-top-test-track.

Roof Top Test Track at the old Lingotto FIAT Factory

On top of the Lingotto building in Turin. It was once an automobile factory built by Fiat. The building opened in 1923 was unusual in that it had five floors, with raw materials going in at the ground floor, and cars built on a line that went up through the building. Finished cars emerged at rooftop level, where there was a rooftop test track. It was the largest car factory in the world at that time. 80 different models of car were produced there in its lifetime, including the famous Fiat Topolino of 1936.

After the factory closed in 1982 it was rebuilt into a modern complex, with concert halls, theatre, a convention centre, shopping arcades and a prestigious hotel. The eastern portion of the building instead, is the headquarter of the Automotive Engineering faculty of the Polytechnic University of Turin. The track was however retained and can still be visited today!

A Day Trip to Torino…to Visit an Old FIAT Factory

Tuesday was another early day. We had to catch a high-speed train to Torino at 8am. The nice thing at least about this apartment was that it wasn’t more than 15 minutes to the train station so we usually got there with 5 minutes to find our seat and head off.

Neither Rebecca nor I knew much about Torino beyond the fact that the Olympics where once held there. I did a little research and discovered that there is a large old Fiat factory which had been converted into a mall centre. Atop this old 6 floor mammoth facility is the World’s only roof top test track…something I had to see for myself.

Upon arriving in Torino we jumped onto what can only be described as the cleanest subway in Italy and headed down to Lingotto. It was early when we got there, before 10, and most of the shops were not open yet but we walked around for awhile and after the stores started to open we popped into a few before we headed to the top floor to check out the test track. Earlier, before the elevators were working, we had tried to walk to the top through the spiral drive way, similar to that found in parking garages, but reached an unmovable fence which we couldn’t pass. The only way to the top is to head through the gift shop and up the elevators. This elevator will bring you to the entrance to the art gallery and also to the test track. I wasn’t sure what to expect from the track, I had seen a few photos from above but when we stepped out onto it, I was blown away. It was massive, with banked walls on either end. It was a simple loop, but boy was it neat. The factory, when built, was one of the largest in the world. The production line began on the 1st floor where the raw materials would come in and the car would make its way through the floors until arriving on the roof fully finished where it would do its first few miles around the track. We spent a while walking around taking a ton of photos because beyond offering a once in a life time chance to see a roof top test track it offered really nice view of the surrounding area.

We eventually left the roof to grab lunch at the “western pub” which was the worst American food I’ve ever had in my life. In Italy, they don’t have regular vinegar and they use mayonnaise for all their chips. It’s really not that healthy. We debated for a long time about heading just down the street to visit the Torino automobile museum which was due to open at 2 but in the end decided we both felt burned out already and were not up for a museum.

We headed back to the city centre and started our exploration of Torino, we walked up through Via Roma, something similar to the Champs d’Elysees in Paris, with a lot of high end stores. We strolled along the street arriving at the Royal Palace of Turin. We walk through the palace and passed by a beautiful old church where Roman ruins had recently been discovered. Eventually we settled in front of old ruins of the Palatine Towers where we sat for a long time trying to remember which courses we took in university. After our break we headed to a fresh fruit market in Piazza della Repubblica then down along the river as we headed towards Mole Antonelliana. Mole Antonelliana is named after the architect who first undertook the creation of the building for which construction began in 1863. It was originally intended to be a synagogue for the local Jewish population but now houses the Museo Nationale del Cinema. We would take a few neat photos of it before eventually walking along the river to head back to the train station. After a full day in Torino we both agreed that it was a really neat city.

After a long day, Rebecca and I were both ready to crash so once we got off the train and started to head home we were excited to rest, however, we encountered a Ferrari 458 parked out front of our local bar. I, of course, walked over and took a few photos and admired its beauty. The owner happened to notice us and he invited us over for a drink where we ended up sitting for about 2 hours just talking. His name was Franceso, he owned a few different businesses in Milan and had just sold his two older Ferraris, a 360 Modena and a 550 Maranello for this new 458…must be nice.

Lake Maggoire & The Grand Hotel des Iles Borromees

Monday we headed to Stresa around noon, to visit Lake Maggoire. We decided to take a little later start to our day so I had the opportunity to get a haircut and we had the chance get the apartment in order making packing later in the week easier. I ended up finding a haircut for 10E for which the price made me happy and the cut made Rebecca happy as I was starting to look a little homeless.
Our train to Stresa was only about an hour. That is the one thing that I can accredit to Milan, it is a great hub. So far everywhere we have wanted to go has been between an hour and an hour and a half away. It is incredibly convenient. Upon arriving in Stresa we made our way to the water initially, to take the view in. We walked along the water for a bit, before getting the urge for food and once again headed towards the local super mercato. We grabbed some paninis, fresh salami, cheese, olives and an antipasto salad for Rebecca and we headed to a little secluded place and ate our lunch while overlooking the lake. At the onset I thought it was nicer than Garda but it was still busy. With the road being right along the water, it was loud with traffic. The view was good despite the overcast foggy weather of the day. While we sat and ate we watched this old man in a banana hammock sailing his little wooden boat. As he got close he dropped his sail and threw his oars out and all of a sudden his sailboat was a row boat, giving his dog the opportunity to jump out and run along the coastline. He also had a small little outboard engine on the back which he later used to help get him back out to the middle of the lake. It was a rather interesting thing to watch. Rebecca and I ended up walking along the coastline before settling on a small little area to sit at the water to read and talk while I enjoyed a Toscano, a traditional Italian cigar, the same type that “The Man with No Name” aka Clint Eastwood smoked in the classic spaghetti western “The Good the Bad and the Ugly” or in Italian “Il buono, il brutto, il cattivo”.

We only had a couple hours before our train was due to leave so before we left we headed over to the Grand Hotel des Iles Borromees. This hotel is famous for being a place Ernst Hemmingway stayed on a number of occasions and where part of his book “A Farwell to Arms” is set. In its own right, the hotel is amazing, large, and elegant. We debated having a glass of wine there until we saw that it was 10 euro a glass. We opted to head down the beach again and have one for 5 instead. I’m really going to miss the affordability of classy alcoholic drinks.

I’m On A Boat (Looking At Some Mountains, Reflecting)

Visiting the Town of Bellano on Lake Como

We stopped for a picnic in the small town of Bellano and this was our view.

Returning to Lake Como: Varenna, Bellagio & Bellano

Neither Rebecca nor I have slept very well the last week while being in Milan, the bed is small, and very soft resulting in an inability to sleep deeply. Due to our plans for our last week, Sunday was one of the last days we would be afforded the opportunity to sleep in, so we tabled our plans to leave early for Lake Maggoire and decided to make plans based on when we awoke. We both slept in, missing the early train leaving us with a decision, did we want to take an 11:30 train to Stresa at Lake Maggoire or a 10:20 to Varenna at Lake Como. I fully understand how that predicament isn’t exactly a life or death problem but that was the biggest issue for us that day.

We opted to head to Lake Como as the train left earlier and we would be afforded more time in the beautiful lakeside town. We boarded our train and headed on our hour trip through the mountains to reach Varenna. Varenna is further north than the town of Como and is directly across from the town of Bellagio which can be reached via ferry. Our initial plan for the day was to head to Bellagio right away before spending time in and around Varenna itself, where we would need to catch the train home. That plan crashed and burned the moment we arrived at Varenna. A couple of other passengers along with us tried to exit the train and car the doors wouldn’t open. Before we knew it or had a chance to signal for help from a conductor, the train was moving again heading to its next stop. Lucky for us the next stop was only about 4 minutes down the track at a small town called Bellano. Not exactly knowing what to do, Rebecca and I made fast friends with an elderly couple, George and Terry, who were supposed to get off at Varenna to take the ferry to their hotel in Bellagio. Trying to get our bearings George and I headed down to the water to determine if it was better to take a train in an hour or if there was a ferry coming sooner while Rebecca stayed with Terry at the station. To make a long story short, in the end George and Terry headed back down the tracks to catch a ferry from Varenna as it was a Sunday and ferry service to Bellano was almost nonexistent. While, for Rebecca and I, we happened to stumble into what can only be described as the cutest, little, out of the way, town in all of Italy.

Bellano is quiet, not a typical tourist destination. It’s a short walk from the station to the waterfront which is clean and simple. You first come across an open green park area that overlooks a marina and beside that is a waterside bar with a pool and rentable sun chairs, in front of what can only be described as a rocky beach. There is a small walking bridge which stretches over a small river that brings the fresh mountain water down to the town and feeds into the lake. Along this river and on the beach, we witnessed people lying in the sun and enjoying the beauty of the quaint little town. Beyond that area, Bellano turns into a small public square and there is a yacht club with sailboat storage. Finally, there is a long boardwalk toward the center of the city which of course has your typical Italian staples: pizzerias, churches, and gelato shops.

We ended up spending a few hours in Bellano, sitting and admiring the view of the mountains and the clear shimmering lake. We picked up lunch from the local grocery store and sat along the park right at the waters edge. It was very remarkable town. We eventually got back to our original plan and jumped on a train and rode it the one stop back to Varenna. Varenna was slightly busier. It appeared to be more of a small fishing community. We initially didn’t spend much time there as we jumped on the first ferry we could get to go to Bellagio.

Heading to Bellagio I wasn’t prepared for the views we witnessed from the boat. Since it was an automobile ferry there was the open front and rear end of the boat which allowed the cars to come and go. This also meant you could get right up to the edge of the boat. Standing there, Rebecca commented, it almost felt as though you were flying over the water.

Upon docking in Bellagio it was apparent we were in a much larger tourist destination. It was busy, crowded, and things were expensive. We quickly made our way through the city to head to the point to look over the lake from a different angle. We sat along the large retaining wall for awhile, gnawing on some bread sticks, occasionally sharing them with the ducks below us. I love feeding ducks. They are such silly animals.

We would spend a little more time in Bellagio walking around the town but all in all it wasn’t the most exciting place for Rebecca and I. While we were there, we did get a chance to watch a regatta featuring Lucia’s, which are typical Lake Como rowboats.

We headed back to Varenna where we explored the town for a short while. We walked along a boardwalk to the main city bay where we sat and enjoyed some gelato while admiring the view again from a different angle. Very quickly a nasty storm rolled in, blowing the boats in the bay around and knocking over umbrellas at some of the smaller restaurants. We opted to take this opportunity to jump on a train and head back to Milan.

The Last Supper

We spent a relatively calm Saturday sleeping in and relaxing. Our only plans for the day were to honour our reservation at 6:45 to visit Santa Maria delle Grazie to view Leonardo da Vinci’s, The Last Supper. The walk from our apartment to the church wasn’t more than half an hour and we left early enough to ensure we had the opportunity to swing by the castle and dunk our feet in the water to cool down. We sat in the sun watching the families walking around and into the castle while kids played in the fountain, occasionally splashing water all over us.

After a refreshing break we put our shoes and sandals back on and headed towards the Last Supper. Seeing the Last Supper is by far one of the more difficult things to see in Italy. You have to reserve a 15 minute time slot and you must do it well in advanced to ensure yourself an opportunity to view the great masterpiece. The Last Supper is not a part of the church but is actually in the refectory. It survived a bombing during WWII however protective sandbagging prevented the painting from being struck by bomb splinters. Upon showing our reservation number and receiving our ticket we sat in a small room with approximately 20 other people. Along the walls was detailed information about the church and about the masterpiece itself. When our time came we headed through an airlock system which ensures the room is climate controlled to best preserve the painting. Of all the art I have seen on this trip I think I found The Last Supper to be the most breathtaking. It is large, covering the entire wall. It is grand with amazing detail. We sat in the refectory taking in the painting in awe of all the detail in such an old painting when at the 15 minute mark, the two women working at the mini museum ushered us all out and into the gift shop.

Rebecca and I sat for a while outside the church after stepping in to catch the end of Mass. We walked back to our apartment taking an alternate route as we searched for a place that was still open to grab groceries so Rebecca could make our standard dinner, Caprese salad.